Last minute dinner changes on Thursday night – we were going to do a return trip to TRUST, but decided to try out something new (and constantly recommended) and walked into Richard Blais’s (a Top Chef All-Star winner) Juniper & Ivy in Little Italy. It was pretty crowded for a Thursday night; we weren’t able to score a table, but we managed to get a few seats at the lounge. The boisterously drunk ladies seated to our right on the same table added a little bit to the atmosphere (and, after bugging one of our dining partners to take multiple photos, generously compensated his drink). The place was definitely swanky to the max – I was dressed way too comfortably (I may or may not have taken a shower that day) considering everyone was wearing sports coats and dresses.
The interior is swanky to the swank-th degree. It’s a pleasant mix of industrial steel and rustic dark wood with a grey concrete floor and just enough atmospheric lights to make it seem like you’re in an hottest, most exclusive spot. The open kitchen covers the entire back of the building, and the restroom features a confusing door labelled “YES” which then leads to the communal sinks and gender-separated toilets. More than one guest knocked on the “YES” door while I was taking a leak. Different? Yes. Practical? Eh.
Maybe that’s the theme for the food as well. Instead of letting the ingredients speak for themselves, it seems as though Blais is attempting to wow with bold flavors, but they make each dish seem one-dimensional rather than have depth. The wagyu short rib was tender and moist, but the flavor of the meat was completely covered by the acidic, almost Indian-like spicy romesco sauce that was generously spread everywhere. It was the same story with the lamb leg (drowning in veggies and a bright vinaigrette) and agnolotti (filled with a powerfully sweet and lemon-y ricotta meant to cut the smokyness of side of morels). The technique and seasonality of these ingredients are lost somehow in the acidic bursts and buttery punches. The one dish that was executed well was the NY strip steak, cooked perfectly to our order with a crispy crust and sitting on top a bed of savory spinach and mushrooms with roasted sunchokes, a clever twist to the normal steak accompaniment of potatoes.
It’s clear that Blais is an incredible chef and perhaps my snobby-ass palate doesn’t suit his culinary vision – but even with the bold flavors I couldn’t help but feel a bit… underwhelmed. The meal was excellent, our server was polite, our meals came out delayed but hey – we arrived at the last second and it was packed. I’m not gonna hold it against them. But while every dish was delicious, I felt as though some of the food was lost in the flavor madness. What’s the point of spending all this time on cooking extra-fatty wagyu short rib if you’re going to overpower it with a tangy sauce? I still plan to return in the future, but I hope the ever-changing menu can bring out a bit more flavor complexity to match the technical skills.
P.S. – One of my dinner companions had a minty whiskey cocktail that was quite refreshing, but I enjoyed a delicious Pinot Noir from the Finger Lakes. It was fruit forward, but not too sweet, but also didn’t have as much of an acidic bite like typical Pinot Noirs from Burgundy. It ended up being a delicious pairing with our food choices. I’ve never had a wine from NY and it was a great first try! If only I remembered to note down the name of the winery…
Guru of Gluttony 