All photos are courtesy of Taylor Sandate (@and_her_dog_too)
Right on the edge of Hillcrest and North Park on an awkward three-way intersection sits TRUST, an independent restaurant opened in 2015 and currently run by chef/co-owner Brad Wise and GM/co-owner Steve Shwob. I was a bit hesitant about eating out again after a few bad experiences at other, unassociated restaurants, especially those that boasts top notch hospitality and service (*cough* Whisknladle: the disappointing one-night stand and abusive ex all in one), but you can’t live in the past for too long! It was a quiet Sunday night when my lovely dining partner and I arrived and with so few people dining at the tables and bar, it was easy to score a table. I’d expect we wouldn’t be so lucky if it was a Friday or Saturday night. The decor is a rustic mixed with swanky; the light is dim but just bright enough to clearly see the elegant dishes and while the menu has a variety of wood fired dishes, the walls are either covered in a sleek modern tile or windowed to bring in natural light. What’s curious is the restroom; it was decorated like a college bar with a “Renaissance”-style painting of girls laughing at your man parts while you pee in the urinal and a framed “WT(fork).” Huh? Why? I guess whatever floats your boat, man. Maybe I’m too old to get it.
As for the hospitality, there was no need to worry – TRUST does have great service. In fact, they might be a bit too polite. We were welcomed in with kind words: “of course!” “no problem!” “first of all, thank you for choosing to dine with us!” The exuberant enthusiasm made it seem a bit disingenuous at first, but once we started ordering it was clear the wait staff wasn’t putting on airs. Our server immediately recommending not getting both the charcuterie + cheese board and the chicken liver with toast, since the board included toasted bread spread with andouille sausage. Good to know you’re on my side, not the owner’s pockets. Wine suggestions, however, were maybe not so great – I was interested in a glass of the Von Winning Dry Riesling 2015 since I’m not a fan of sweet, but it still ended up being a bit too sugary for me (I guess I should have known since it’s from Pfalz, instead of Alsace where the Rieslings are dryer?). My dining partner had a delicious lemonade-based mocktail which delivered a small burst of lemon tartness at the beginning that quickly gave way to a sweet aftertaste.
But hell, forget all the decoration, drinks, vibes, and service – the food is really where it’s at. The charcuterie and cheese board had a healthy variety of in-house cured meats, dairy, jam, and mustard. The thinly-sliced duck ham’s mild flavor stood in contrast with the salty, thick slabs of salami. The aformentioned toast with andouille sausage was topped with a mountain of chives and added a good bit of heat and spice from the Cajun seasoning. Additional spreads included a fatty pork butter (essentially leaf lard), a sweet and savory blueberry jam, and a whole host of spicy pickled veggies. The fact there were only two cheeses was a bit disappointing, though the two offerings were decent. The blue cheese was young and mellow with just a hint of funkiness. If more blue cheese was like this, I’d eat it more often! The hard cow’s milk cheese was standard – young with quiet flavors but not very memorable.
As for main courses, we were told the plates are small and designed to share so that rich and savory dishes won’t be too filling. How millennial! The hot dishes were absolutely delicious. The Italians use egg to make their carbonara more creamy – why not try the same for the lobster risotto whose poached egg gives the whole dish a pleasant mouthfeel (not to mention the wonderful accompanied wild mushrooms and delicious seafood flavor on every bite)? And why hasn’t everyone made braised oxtail ravioli? The sauce, punctuated with dots of ricotta, still had the acidity from the tomatoes, but had a depth of flavor that can only come from hours of braising. The raviolini wrappers were the perfect thickness and oxtail inside was tender and well-seasoned.
The seemingly simple and well-executed twists on known dishes and reasonable price points and portions make TRUST a worthy addition to any local top dining list. It’s a restaurant done right; it makes the diner feel comfortable, excited about the food, and (most of all) satisfied with the meal – all for a reasonable price. I’m planning to book another table soon. Maybe I should try their brunch or vegetarian options?
P.S. – The wood smoke from the kitchen fires were barely noticeable when dining, but when I finally got home my clothes had smelled like I had attended a joint bonfire, barbeque, and smoking convention. We were seated right by the kitchen, but still… You’ve been warned!
Guru of Gluttony 